Sunday Breakfast in Rouen.

When I heard someone say that on a recent visit to Rouen one sunday morning, they had finally found sustanance in the local Macdonalds, I nearly sat down and wept!

Had they only known to turn left out of their hotel door and not to the right, they would have found ‘le monde’ in all its colour and vivacity, the air full of aromas and scents and the hubub of the masses going about their business at the big sunday market at Place St Marc.

I stopped a few people to ask where would be the best place for ‘petit dejeuner’, and they looked about smiling at the surrounding crowds- well you do what the French do of course.


…park your bike and find a seat in a local cafe, if indeed a seat can be found!

…have a strong coffee and muse over the ‘marché’ on the other side of the street. Many cafés are right next door to a patisserie, and most will provide a croissant or two when asked!

Then get down to business: the real french business of ‘petit dejeuner’ – which of course literally translates as ‘little lunch’…

A fresh crèpe would be a lovely start – nutella, citron sucré, confiture…

…then there are little morceaux of home made ‘Pain d’Epîces’, a local honey producer’s spicy honey cake to try.. and maybe a pot of honey to take home…

a few strawberries would be nice..

..or an apple or two. But being Normandy, with over 13 varieties of apples on display it becomes a difficult choice. More than likely, I will be sweet-talked by the producer, and will wander away with several bottles of  locally produced cider!

..before I know it I am sampling the cheese..

The cured salami and olives are delicious..

…and I am impressed by the queue for locally grown cress and mushrooms. It must be good!

There is Neufchatel cheese, formed in the shape of hearts and traditionally given to the allied soldiers by the Normandy dairymaids. Little morsels are on the counter to sample!

… perhaps a spicy paella?

Appetite appeased, it’s time to wander through the brocante at the far side of the market..

I can’t resist the flowers

But wait – If a strong cup of coffee and sampling all the produce at the market don’t constitute a fully satisfying breakfast, why not try either of these…

Appreciate the  interior of this great café, dedicated to discussion and the meeting of ‘minds’. One might expect to meet the great thinkers of the ‘Belle Epoque’. Open every sunday morning from 10-2, the owner serves food on weekdays, but is open to clients selecting their vienoisserie from the Boulangerie next door to enjoy with their coffee on a sunday morning.

..or if a formal breakfast is in mind – Try the Couleur Café on rue Eau de Robec where for 5€ an immense ‘petit dejeuner’ can be ordered with the most incredible selection of teas and coffees and vienoisserie.

Now there’s just time to drop the flowers, cider and ‘finds’ from the brocante off at the hotel before going to visit the…

Musée de Beaux Arts

…or the Musée de Ceramiques,

both open for free the first sunday of every month.

or perhaps the Jardin de Plantes,

for a game of petanque,

or perhaps just a stroll along the Seine before dinner.

Bon Apetite!

The Thursday Brocante – La Brocante de Jeudi à Rouen.

The glorious sunshine and the anticipation of finding the Thursday Brocante on the Rive Gauche promised to make this morning a great one. The station square was sunny and bright as I headed for the metro station and my intended destination of ‘Joffre Mutualité’.

The metro stop for the brocante is the first one after crossing the Seine, and it took a few moments and a stop to ask directions before I came across the covered market.

…but I knew I was onto a good thing when I came across a multitude of white vans parked haphazardly on the side of the road – when there are this many vans in one spot it can only mean one thing… Brocante!

Full of anticipation I went to see what was on offer…

I have a bit of a thing for old french gilt mirrors – but at 80€ I had to ‘reflechir un peu’.

I couldn ‘t resist this ‘still life’ and was quite taken by the ‘fishy’ picture.

I was just sneakily taking this photo, having asked all the other stall-holders for permission, and frankly just getting a little too blasé for my own good, when a deep voice thundered from behind me,

“ça va coûter 10€ pour prendre un photo…’  (that’ll be 10€ to take the photo)

and lo and behold if it wasn’t my old friend ‘the second hand bookstore’ owner! Needless to say  we exchanged greetings and then I carried on regardless before wandering off to see what else was on offer…

Sometimes there are wonderful monogrammed old linens, but this time they were sadly disappointing.

What I did buy today however was some lovely Toile.

I feel some curtains coming on…

Off Piste in Rouen

One of the most pleasant things about France is that, unlike most of Britain, things only get christmassy when christmas is just round the corner. It means that Autumn can be celebrated for its beautiful colours before the sparkly lights and street vendors come out to roast their chestnuts. Somehow, when all these things happen too early the excitement of christmas looses its edge before the day actually arrives.

The difference I suppose is that whilst the British manufacturers are on the ‘hard-sell’ for all those totally unnecessary “must haves”‘, the French are more interested in true excellence; the smoothest fois gras; the perfectly chosen wine; the oozing cheese; the freshest of fish and the elegance of christmas. Maybe because France is fairly new to me I am seeing it with the same eyes that children see their first few Christmases.

Christmas decorations  appeared in Rouen at the begining of December with a classic simplicity which makes one appreciate that many are doing their bit to rein in the austentatious displays which jar with the reality of the recession. Simplicity in itself can still be beautiful!

Our school has a wonderful tradition of ordering in christmas trees and donating at the same time to charity. There is something wonderfully festive about families gathering to collect their trees together from where they are stacked in the school garden and carrying them home under their arm or with the aid of their children.

This year my children demanded that we updated our decorations a little from the unbreakable ones we had when they were very little, and so it was that over the last couple of days I have, under the guise of hunting out decorations, wandered off my usual shopping route in search of something classic, beautiful and unusual. As I did so I made many exciting discoveries and it struck me that this too is one of the fundamental differences between England and France. How many more specialist shops, how many more shopkeepers and customers are keeping alive traditional regional products and traditional manufacturing methods;  the pride of a nation which not only fiercely protects its own small industries but also maintains its demand for their products, celebrates them and stubbornly defends them against foriegn rivals. As one moves from department to department, from region to region, there is always at least one product associated with it, and usually many more. But I digress a little as today I have been savoring the variety of little specialist shops tucked away in tiny side streets of Rouen and the generosity of spirit of those who run them in recommending and directing me to their neighbours, colleagues or competitors in my search for the few odd bits and bobs that were on my shopping list.

The main item on my list was a collection of old pendalogues, the glass ‘drops’ from a crystal chandelier which I wanted to hang from my christmas tree. My initial thought was a glass and linen shop on Rue Beauvoisine. I was disappointed to find it locked up but spotted a little notice in the window requesting that enquiries were made next door at an antique bookstore. What a delight was in store for me. Piles and piles of ancient books towering up to the lofty ceiling, beautiful antique covers jostling alongside modern-day classics.

I asked to visit the neighbouring glass shop, to discover that this was the husband of the owner. He was only too happy to open up and we discussed the correct terminology for the glass drops, and I realised that although his wife did not have what I was looking for, her antique linen tablecloths and crystal glassware were to die for and would be beautiful on a christmas dining table.

I spent a good ten minutes back in the bookshop discussing how reading french books was an essential part of my language learning. In his turn he recommended the colourful  and classic language of Maupassant as essential reading matter for a varied vocabulary and correct sentence construction. I was happy that I could confirm that I had already read several. For all the apparent disorder he knew exactly which stack of books held the desired recommendations, and pulled out a few english ones too. I left clutching three under my arm.

He then recommended the rue Eau de Robec area for my continued search for pendalogues.

Having passed several very beautiful antiques shops – too daunting to enter – I finally spotted  one, a little more approachable than the rest and enquired if he had any broken or damaged pendalogues that I could buy. Not thinking me ridiculous at all in my request he directed me to a beautiful chandelier shop only moments from his.

I was charmed therefore to find that the owner of the Chandelier shop not only had pendalogues for sale but also a large variety. We selected a few all the time enjoying pleasant banter with him and his wife and he asked me to pop back later, by which time he would have embellished each pendalogue with either glass flowers or stars and created wire hooks for each for me to thread ribbon ‘hangers’ through.

Whilst waiting I passed through a narrow pedestrian allée to discover another fabric shop with a basket of remnants and its owner busy on a sewing machine creating curtains for a client. Her selection of linens was delightful and this one was too ‘french’ for me to pass by!

Next I passed this wonderful flower shop

and this violin craftsman

The Quartier des Antiquities in Rouen is an architectural delight with its pretty streets, leaning colombage buildings and pedestrian allées, as well as providing a visual feast amongst its shop windows:

I came home very pleased with my purchases and charmed by the people I’d met on my travels!

and spent the evening adorning my tree!

Getting crafty with an Advent Calendar!

This weekend I was pestered incessantly by the kids for chocolate advent calendars. This followed by requests to avoid Milka chocolate, cheap chocolate -well any chocolate that wasn’t frankly Cadbury’s or Lindt! Read more

Tissus et Mercerie, Fabrics and Habadashery – Rouen.

I spend far too much time doing tedious chores, and after having another “English tea” party with my fellow french mums pondered on the question several of them had asked over the course of the afternoon.

What do we do with our days ? What do we do to inspire ourselves?

Fresh from those thoughts I headed for my fabric drawer.

These are just a couple of fabulous linens I had lying about thanks to offcuts from my great friend at Lime Tree Design and which were crying out to be made into something!  Read more